Marcazo - Official Top Gov Ron Desantis Florida America’s Freedom Zone T-Shirt

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Nellie Partow often finds her inspiration in menswear, so it was a surprise to hear the word “sensual” at her resort 2022 appointment. Her signature knits came in new curve-hugging silhouettes—a ruby color-blocked one was actually a bodysuit, a Partow first—and a square-neck LBD was her modern take on a slip. Partow said she was thinking about the 1920s, when women emerged from another dark period—post–World War I, post–Spanish Flu—with a new lust for life and a more modern, daring look to match.

There were no feathers or flapper fringe in her showroom, but that slip nodded to the straight silhouette of the ’20s, and there was a new sense of verve in the palette. Color isn’t foreign to Partow, but she typically sticks to one bright or pastel; in contrast, the clash of cobalt, poppy, and orchid here was satisfyingly intense. The gloss of an orchid silk dress even came through in the look book, which was shot on film for an intentionally grainy finish.

One thing you can’t pick up in photos: The silk looks hammered, but was actually bonded with raw linen for a vaguely rumpled texture and sturdier silhouette. All the better to dress it down with knee-high boots or glam it up with party heels. Adding to its appeal was the dress’s made–in–New York story: Faced with delays in Italy, where most of her collection is produced, Partow experimented with hand-dyeing here in Manhattan. The process lent a rich color to the silk; a black version of that dress was practically multidimensional, with glimmers of blue peeking through from the linen.

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